yes, inexplicably, the beach really is this deserted. i had heard that cherating was full of surfers and garrulous old local characters, lounging around, just dying for a chat with some random americans, or ozzies, or whatevers. but instead, in the super-off-season, it is just clouds and sky and sand and silence, radiating a kind of purity. lots of space for me to learn how to throw a frisbee, with no one around to watch or judge. this is key; i am entertainingly incompetent with a frisbee. at the far left end of the beach, a couple of vendors sell roasted corn, ice water, and delectable cups of fresh coconut-water jelly; there's one beachside restaurant with lovely teh tarik and edible pineapple fried rice, and, about a hundred meters further down, a little bar with wireless, guinness, and the opening game of the world cup. something about the end-of-day light at this east-facing beach feels, i don't know, subtle ... its the kind of refined light that makes a dramatic west-facing sunset beach feel a little vulgar and overdressed, like when you wear a rhinestoned bustier to a tea party. its the perfect place to lose a few days or weeks: a time vortex, a deeper shade of soul.
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