Monday, August 23, 2010

you are responsible for your own safety

gua telinga, the sign reads, and then: you are responsible for your own safety. 

all around, the forest is thick with life: dripping, rustling, looming life.  nailpolish-red flowers bloom straight up from black loam.  ropey vines sneak up tree trunks, spill down in thick snakey coils, surge and twine together with roots above the surface of the soil.  sky and earth in a fine network, connected. an electric neon caterpillar as thick as my thumb swings the soft spikes of its head and tail from side to side, like an 80s dance move.  the sounds of birds: like water droplets, like the pow-pow-pow! laser guns of an x-wing fighter.  the air is a fertile soup, scented with loam and the weight of a hundred million years of decomposition and rebirth. i saw only one other human: an orang asli woman, pink hibiscus tucked behind one ear, equally as surprised to see me as i was to see her.

there is no gaping maw of a cavemouth, just a fissure between two jagged rocks and a little painted arrow pointing down.  i peer inside, and a cool draft of air lifts up to greet me.  no sound but that of my breath, whistling, my heart hammering. there is that instinctive primitive feeling of cave:  that oppressive sense of the air being full all around you, too full for sky.  i am not great with enclosed spaces.

inside, the air is cool and moist, not completely still, but quiet enough that each breath of air is a distinct touch on the skin.  each rock is a different kind of slippery: the smoothly worn; the murky damp, slick with moss, slick with bat guano.   i can feel the giant toads watching me with their submerged golden eyeballs, watching me haul myself up, hand over hand, ropes tied to roots. there is a fine rustling, like someone shaking out a sheet, like sheets flapping on a clothes line.  bats bats bats.

i brace my feet, angled ankles against the smooth stone.  the rope doesn’t reach, quite, to the bottom of this rock and it feels too loosely attached up above – a guiderope only, not strong enough to lever me back up if i chose to go back.  my fingers skitter over the thin strand of the next rope and i let myself slide down towards it, pulling the rope a bit for balance.  it gives.  a closer look with the headlamp: not a rope at all, but a root.  and the rope before it, also suspiciously loose?  also a root.  i have still just enough balance remaining to haul myself back up the rock i’ve just slid down.  status: location of rope to guide me forward – unknown.  location of rope to guide me backwards: unknown.  

this is your life, says my internal monologue.  this is your life and you are inside a cave full of bats and you don’t know how to get out.  don’t freak out.  and then there comes at once the realization that i have started climbing up, towards a faint light from the roof of the cave, without any actual moment of decision to climb.  the hole is big enough for me: i lift myself out of the cave and into the sweet air of freedom.  i examine the kidney-shape of the cave in my mind to orient myself: i will walk over the top of the cave, mirroring what would have been my interior progress, as if the cave were a prison-maze from which one may only escape by refusing to play by the rules of the man.  confidently, i strike out towards the exit-mouth of the cave.  hm, impenetrable jungle.  i realize abruptly that (1) my mental cave-schematic is pure fabrication and (2) if i lose the actual cave, i will have even less idea of where to go than i did inside the cave.  i breathe the last breath of sweet freedom air and lower myself back in.  

the internal monologue is back: you are trapped in a bat cave, it says again.  shut up, i say, i’m trying to think. i systematically survey possible routes.  that crevice looks too small.  i try it anyhow: it is.  this three-dimensional situation requires a lot of creative surveying.  the mouth of another likely-looking crevice is fanged with the hairy, teardrop-shaped bundles of sleeping bat, each wrapped in her transparent blanket of fleshy wings.  not that way.   o, but maybe this way?  yes.  yes, yes, yes.

do you know what is an underrated emotion?   sweet relief.
 

here there be dragyns


the stick is obviously to protect us from marauding dragons, and we need it.  "show me what you'd do with that stick if a dragon attacks," i demand.  our guide holds the stick out to his side with flaccid wrist; i'd like to see a little more vim and vigor from my designated protector, but really, the dragons don't seem too threatening.  they're all flopped out around the ranger station, some spread-eagled and solo, others sort of semi-stacked on top of each other, exchanging the occasional forked-tongue kiss. 


i guess the big guns can afford to seem so casual after enduring the harrowing dragon childhood: emerging from the egg, then immediately scampering up a tree for two years to avoid being chomped on by bigger versions of themselves.  a hungry dragon will attack a buffalo, bite it once or twice on the legs, then linger around, following it for the two weeks it takes for a buffalo to succumb to the salivary poison.  it's macabre, but hey, it's reptiles.  we nine fleshy westerners, all scaltily clad in shortshorts, tanktops and flipflops (one barefooter), would make for a fine dragon feast.  we're smaller than buffalo, smaller still than deer, so a quick poisonous strike to the kneecap would down any one of us in well less than two weeks or even the deer's two days.  fast food.


or maybe we're not quite as helpless as we look. 

the pampers project

the girl at the counter looks askance at my pile of items-to-be-purchased.  most of it is unremarkable -- broad beans, malkist crackers, little bottles of vinegar and alcohol (for anti-ear infection wash), big waters, the odd bit of chocolate.  but:  "miss.  pampers, miss."  the girl says it with equal parts emphasis and disbelief.  (translation:  "um, foreign girl.  what the hell are you doing????")  i beam at her.  i have been looking for adult-sized diapers for a while now, and it is excellent luck to have found some, just days before a long bus trip.  "ya, pampers!"  i exclaim.  "saya perlu untuk bis!"  (translation: "yes, pampers!  i need for the bus!")

so many bus rides spent worrying i might end up humiliating myself by getting up from a damp seat.  so many bus rides spent chewing at my chapped lips, feeling my tissues shrivel for lack of moisture, yet not daring to risk more than a throat-wetting sip of water.  so many mornings debating whether to drink the delicious chai/teh tarik/kopi in front of me, or to let my fear of caffeine's diuretic effects take control.

with the adult diaper, now i have control.  at least, in the sense that i have created a safe place for me to lose control.  strapping it on gives me a warm, safe feeling.  like strapping on a set of plate armor.  

um, a set of plate armor for a man thrice my size ...